Thursday, June 11, 2009

How to use a vintage unprinted sewing pattern.

Do those unprinted patterns scare you? They shouldn't -- there are just a few rules to keep in mind when using them. Once you get it down, you'll wonder why you ever avoided them!

  • The large triple perforations are also used for cutting, but they are always laid on a fold of the material-- a lengthwise, crosswise, or bias fold.
  • Before you pin your pattern on your material, it is advisable to take a ruler or tape and measure, to be sure the crosswise grain line is the same distance from the selvedge at each group of perforations.
  • Small double perforations are used to mark the natural waistline in dresses, blouses, coats, etc. In some cases, they are also used to indicate the elbows or outlines of the neck, and are sometimes also used in other special cases.
  • Large single perforations, or small single perforations, either alone or together, are used for different purposes, and their purpose is always marked in the Deltor.
  • "Outlet" or "Let Out" seams are marked by large single perforations. In basting the line should run exactly through the center of these perforations. "Outlet" or "Let Out" seams are deeper than ordinary seams. They are made so on purpose, so that they can be let out if necessary, to make any slight alteration to fit
    the individual figure. They are generally used at underarm and shoulder seams, and usually on the seams of sleeves. In so many cases, women's shoulders are not exactly even, or there are other slight variations from average at one point or another of the figure. These "Outlet" or "Let Out" seams give you a chance to alter the garment in an easy, simple way. Consult the Deltor to find where these seams are on the pattern you are using. When basting up the garment for the first time, always baste through the center of the perforations that mark the "Outlet" or "Let Out" seams, and try the garment on. Then, if it is too tight at any
    part, rip the seams as required, and rebaste to fit.
  • Ordinary seams are not marked by perforations, but are to be basted exactly 3/8" from the seam edge, unless otherwise specified. This allowance of the 3/8" is made on all edges except those that are to be cut on a fold

    of the good, and, of course, except those that have the "let out" or "outlet" allowance. In basting the garment the seam lines must be followed exactly. If you make any seam deeper or narrower, you alter the size of the garment.
  • Darts are marked by V shaped lines of perforations. A dart is made by bringing the two lines of dart perforations together and basting through the perforations. The line of basting a dart should follow the center of the perforations. Be careful to avoid a pouch effect, a sort of pucker, something that is seen at the end of a badly sewed dart.
  • Notches are to be used at seam edges to show which edges should be joined. Edges marked with notches are put together with the corresponding notches matching.
Sounds easy? Now get sewing!

2 comments:

  1. THANK YOU!!! I was always too scared to even contemplate it, I would just stare longingly at the envelopes.

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  2. Thank you!! I have a pattern like that...in fact I have it since january but just last week I tryed to do it, but it was kind of confusing for me.
    But now with all what you have explained I hope I can sew it.
    Thanks one more time!! =) Greetings from Mexico and forgive my bad english

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